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Skim Coat #1
Skim coat #1 is an 800 square foot residential application...
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Floor Seasons concrete staining and artistic design was incorporated in May of 2002 and granted the first specialized concrete staining contractors license in Nevada in November of 2002.
As its principal officer, Cary Grant has extensive experience in all aspects of the design, application, and artistry of concrete staining.
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Initially trained in floor maintenance and marble restoration, Cary worked in these industries from 1992-1996. During this period of time, he developed the skills and knowledge to be a project manager. This combined with his previous background allowed him to run numerous projects varying from custom residential homes to large commercial projects. As concrete staining popularized, Cary learned the techniques necessary to create a stained concrete floor. From 1996-present, he has mastered the art of concrete staining and decided to specialize in that field.
In August of 2001, Cary made the decision to put his talent and services on the market with Floor Seasons. This gave him the opportunity to bring concrete staining to another level. Utilizing multi-colors, artistic saw cuts, and innovative designs, allows his team and him to create a unique floor to fit any décor.
Cary's passion was to have a series of comprehensive concrete staining DVDS on the market so that the weekend warrior could do his or her garage or the contractor in Timbuktu could open his or her own concrete staining company. Needless to say, the DVDS will speak for themselves.
Cary has worked on these 8 DVDS for approximately one year, which were launched at The World of Concrete 2005, where he was 1 of 12 artists featured.
Our experience also speaks for itself. Given the opportunity, our qualified team will use all of their resources to make your project a success. With enthusiasm and determination, we are committed to staying on schedule and budget to create a work of art you can walk on. |
1) Acetone: One of the most common solvents often used to clean residue off a surface or to thin other products. It is a flammable substance.
2) Acid etching: A process of applying phosphoric or muriatic acid to a concrete floor which cleans and etches the surface.
3) Acid Stains: An advanced method of colorizing concrete that involves applying an acidic, water-based solution mixed with inorganic salts to the floor's surface for 1-6 hours. The solution is then neutralized with ammonia and water and cleaned up with a wet/dry vacuum. The appearance is generally earth toned and may appear marbleized.
4) Adhesive Stencils: Stencils with adhesive backing that are often applied to concrete or another surface and then used to create a pattern or picture by using a stain, dye, gel, or other method to apply color.
5) Aggregate: A material that is added to wet concrete to improve it's structural durability. Common aggregate materials include gravel, sand, rock, and stone.
6) Antiquing: A method of giving a surface an aged, slightly worn appearance.
7) Bond: The adhesion of one material to another.
8) Broadcast: Tossing a material into the air and letting it fall onto wet concrete to add color or texture.
9) Broom Finish: A non-slip texture applied to the surface of wet concrete by pushing a broom across.
10) Calcium Chloride Vapor-Emission Test: A test created by the ASTM which is used to measure the amount of moisture vapor a concrete slab emits over a period of generally 24 hours. This test uses un-hydrated calcium chloride and is available at most flooring retailers.
11) Chemical Staining: The most creative method of staining concrete, which involves applying a formula that reacts with lime contained in the cement. It can be difficult to apply, but when done correctly can create rich colors, patterns, and textures that can mimic natural stones such as granite and marble.
12) Colored Concrete: Concrete that has been colored either by mixing in a coloring product during manufacturing or by applying a coloring product to the surface during or after installation.
13) Concrete Stamping: The act of imprinting patterns into wet concrete to mimic stone, tile, wood planks, and so on.
14) Control / Contraction Joint: A groove cut in a slab of concrete which helps to control cracking.
15) Crack: A split or separation in the surface of a floor. Often must extend to a specific depth to be considered a crack.
16) Cure: When properties of an adhesive or cement are changed by a chemical reaction which allows it to reach its maximum strength. This is generally done by condensation, heat, or another catalyst.
17) Curing Compound: A substance that is put on the surface of wet concrete, forming a layer, and preventing evaporation of water.
18) Decorative Aggregate: Various colored stones or other materials laid in the surface of wet concrete as a decorative layer.
19) Decorative Concrete: Concrete that has color, texture, or decorative aggregate to enhance its appearance.
20) Degreaser: A solution applied to a flooring surface which removes contaminates such as grease and oil.
21) Delamination: A term that refers to failure in the adhesive of laminate flooring, causing separation in the layers.
22) Diamond Grinding: A process of grinding cement or stone to a polished finish using a floor polisher with diamond embedded abrasives.
23) Dyes: Water or solvent based solutions used to apply a variety of different colors to a flooring surface.
24) Efflorescence: Salt deposits that form on the surface of concrete when sodium calcium hydroxide mixes with carbon dioxide.
25) Engraving: The act of cutting patterns or designs into concrete or other hard flooring surfaces, often to create the appearance of grout lines.
26) Etching Gel: A gel that is applied to a concrete surface which gently etches the surface. It is often used with stencils or painted on with a brush.
27) Exposed Aggregate: Colored rocks or other aggregate exposed on the surface of concrete, generally by using abrasive materials or a pressure washer to remove the surface mortar. It is also seen on the surface of natural stone flooring.
28) Fields: Large areas of flooring that may be inside a band or border.
29) Finish Coat: A coat applied to the top of a flooring surface which provides protection for the flooring beneath.
30) Grinding: A method of preparing a surface by using abrasive materials to grind away imperfections.
31) Grout: A creamy mixture of mortar, cement or other cementious material and water used to fill joints and grout lines. It often has sand, gravel or other similar material added and is available in a variety of colors.
32) Hard-Troweled Finish: A flat, smooth, concrete surface finish that is made by using a steel bladed trowel.
33) Hydration: A chemical reaction where the compounds in cement bond with water molecules, causing the cementious materials to harden.
34) Integral Color: Color that is mixed into a product while it is being manufactured.
35) Integrally Colored Concrete: Color that is mixed into concrete before it is laid, producing uniform tinting.
36) Joint: A groove often found in concrete that is used to control cracking or allow expansion of the concrete.
37) Joint Filler: A filler used in joints that is compressed when the floor expands or contracts.
38) Marbleize: The process of giving a surface the appearance of marble by layering finishes.
39) Masking: The act of covering areas of a flooring surface with tape or a stencil and then applying a decorative treatment on uncovered areas.
40) Mil: A measurement often used to describe the thickness of a coat that is equal to 1/1,000 of an inch.
41) Mix Design: A recipe that determines the thickness, drying time, appearance, or other concrete variable. Can include water, aggregate, cement, or other admixture.
42) Moisture Vapor Transmission: The migration of moisture, often between the subfloor and flooring.
43) Mottling Effect: An appearance of lines that look like veins or of lighter or darker areas of color on a concrete floor.
44) Neutralize: The process of using water and ammonia or sodium carbonate to wash concrete and return it to a pH of 6.0 - 9.0 after acid etching.
45) Onyx Marble: A type of marble that is usually translucent and has a layered effect. It is composed of lime carbonate.
46) Overlay: A product built into the top layer of flooring which gives it protection and durability. It can be many different materials such as paper, plastic, film, metal foil, and so on.
47) Painting Concrete: The act of painting a layer of color on a hard concrete surface, often done to cover a repair.
48) Penetrating Sealer: A sealing product that penetrates the flooring surface, which helps protect it from water and contaminates.
49) Pigment: Very small solid particles of color used in products such as paint or enamel.
50) Polymer Stain: An acrylic-urethane based polymer solution that is used to finish flooring, available in a wide array of colors.
51) Polyurethane: Several units of urethane chemically joined together and able to solidify.
52) Pump-up Sprayer: A tool which uses a pump that builds pressure to expel a sealer or other product.
53) Sandblast Stenciling: A design technique wherein a stencil is applied over concrete or another surface, then sandblasted to create texture in exposed areas.
54) Sandblasting: Propelling sand at a high speed onto a surface to clean or roughen it.
55) Sawcutting: The act of sawing joints or scoring concrete using a concrete saw.
56) Sealer: A coat that is applied to the surface of a floor before applying additional coats of finish, which prevents them from being absorbed into the flooring itself.
57) Self-Leveling Overlay: An overlay which levels naturally by gravity rather than by using a trowel or other spreading tool.
58) Shot Blasting: A method used to clean or even out concrete surfaces, which involves shooting round iron at high speeds onto the surface.
59) Solvent: A substance that other substances are dissolved in.
60) Stained Concrete: Concrete that has been stained. Different areas can be separated by sawcutting grooves and then colored different colors.
61) Stamped Concrete: Concrete that is given a pattern of brick, cobblestone, tile, wood, or another surface by using a stamp.
62) Stenciled Concrete: A design technique where a stencil is applied over concrete, which may contain a pattern that is imprinted into the cement or may leave an exposed area that is then colored or etched.
63) Substrate: The surface that the flooring is installed on, generally the subfloor.
64) Surface Preparation: The act of preparing a subfloor by cleaning, drying, and texturizing it for proper adhesion before applying a coating material.
65) Tacky: A term used to describe a surface that is not yet able to be touched without leaving a residue on your fingers or an imprint in the surface.
66) Technical Data Sheet: A sheet that lists any safety precautions, recommendations, instructions, or other data about a product that you should know.
67) Tint: A shade of color that is produced by adding a color to white paint or enamel.
68) Translucent: A term used to describe a substance that allows light to pass through but is not completely see-through.
69) White Cement: A type of white Portland cement that is low in iron and is often used with integral pastels or other bright colors.
70) Xylene: A type of solvent used in solvent based sealers.
Cary Grant
Floor Seasons concrete staining and artistic design was incorporated in May of 2002 and granted the first specialized concrete staining contractors license in Nevada in November of 2002.
As its principal officer, Cary Grant has extensive experience in all aspects of the design, application, and artistry of concrete staining.
Initially trained in floor maintenance and marble restoration, Cary worked in these industries from 1992-1996. During this period of time, he developed the skills and knowledge to be a project manager. This combined with his previous background allowed him to run numerous projects varying from custom residential homes to large commercial projects. As concrete staining popularized, Cary learned the techniques necessary to create a stained concrete floor. From 1996-present, he has mastered the art of concrete staining and decided to specialize in that field.
In August of 2001, Cary made the decision to put his talent and services on the market with Floor Seasons. This gave him the opportunity to bring concrete staining to another level. Utilizing multi-colors, artistic saw cuts, and innovative designs, allows his team and him to create a unique floor to fit any décor.
Cary's passion was to have a series of comprehensive concrete staining DVDS on the market so that the weekend warrior could do his or her garage or the contractor in Timbuktu could open his or her own concrete staining company. Needless to say, the DVDS will speak for themselves.
Cary has worked on these 8 DVDS for approximately one year, which were launched at The World of Concrete 2005, where he was 1 of 12 artists featured.
Our experience also speaks for itself. Given the opportunity, our qualified team will use all of their resources to make your project a success. With enthusiasm and determination, we are committed to staying on schedule and budget to create a work of art you can walk on. 
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Floor Seasons, Inc. recommends that interior floors, in residential and commercial applications, be maintained every 3-6 months, depending upon the traffic on the floor. The following instructions should help guide you in maintaining your floor. If there is any uncertainty, please feel free to call Floor Seasons at (702)348-8971. Whether this is a commercial or residential application and your maintenance is being handled by a janitorial company, or someone of the like, please be sure that they DO NOT strip the floor, as it could ruin the concretes’ surface. Have your janitorial company call Floor Seasons if they have any questions on the care of your floor.
Please do not hesitate to contact us at Floor seasons, Inc., should you have any questions prior to your waxing process through email or by calling 702.348.8971.
You can also view the Maintenance Instructions
in printable format. |
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The following supplies will be needed prior to the start of the waxing process:
3- inch blue masking tape (3M)
Small scraper
Commercial mop bucket and ringer (Home Depot)
(2) fresh mop heads that have been washed and dried in a dryer to make it lint free(no detergent)
(1) rayon mop head for the wax which also needs to be pre-washed and dried (Waxie Sanitary Supply (702)263-0663, located on the corner of Sunset and Pilot) *NOTE: It is very important that all mop heads be pre-washed and dried
(2) detachable mop head poles (Home Depot)
(1) empty 5-gallon pail (Home Depot)
(1) wet-vacuum with floor squeegee attachment (Home Depot)
(1) floor machine (side-to-side) and blue pad (can be rented at Home Depot); for residential, a deck brush would work, as side-to-sides are hard to control
Wax : for every 1000 square feet, a 5- gallon pail of Sunglasses Wax (Waxie Sanitary Supply)
1- gallon of Neutral Floor Detergent (Home Depot or Waxie Sanitary Supply)
(1) Tupperware container large enough to put your wax head in after it has been used (the wax head should be put into a trash bag, with the air squeezed out of the bag, the bag tied in a knot, and kept inside the Tupperware container. The trash bag keeps the wax head moist, as it will never be used for anything but wax. The Tupperware container will ensure that the bag will not get any holes in it, as that will dry out the mop head)
The first step in this waxing process is to remove any and all furniture, etc. that is on the floor. If it is too large and/or too heavy, or it is in a permanent position and will never be moved, use the 3- inch tape around the base of the item to protect it from the wax. Next, tape off any and all baseboards, doors, doorjambs, any adjoining flooring, and anything you do not want to get wax on. It is very important that everything be taped off prior to cleaning, as you may have an issue with tape sticking to wet items. Remember to take your time taping off, as it is easier to remove tape rather than removing wax off of those items that weren’t taped off properly. Sweep floor in its entirety, making sure to get all edges and corners, as you want to get all lose debris off of the floor. Any lose debris can show up in the wax. If you’re using a side-to-side and a blue pad or a deck brush, have your wet-vacuum plugged in and ready to go with the squeegee attachment close by to where you will start. Next, fill your 5-gallon pail full of water and Neutral Floor Detergent, if you choose to use detergent. Remember that more is not always better. Use directions on Neutral Floor. Do not use harsh chemicals or abrasives, ie: bleach. With your mop pole and regular mop head, put it in the 5-gallon pail and splash a little bit of water on an area approximately 10’x10’. Let it soak for a minute or two. If using a sideto- side and blue pad, scrub the area and suck up the dirty water immediately. If using a deck brush, scrub the area vigorously and suck up the dirty water immediately. With either process, go to your next 10’x10’ area as soon as you’re satisfied with the previous section. Take your time in this process of cleaning, as whatever you do no clean will show through the wax and be trapped underneath it. Keeping this in mind, make sure that your edges and your corners have been cleaned and sucked dry thoroughly. Do not feel bad of you have to clean an area 2-3 times. You will feel worse if you rush through this process. If you have pets, you must be sure that you are sucking up ALL hair. The hair will show in the wax and it is very difficult to remove. Please allow for extra cleaning time. Continue cleaning the entire floor until the area to be waxed has been thoroughly cleaned. Go back through, vacuum the floor again, looking for all puddles of water and debris you may have missed. Using your spare mop head, mop the floor for any excess debris. This will be the final mop before waxing. Let dry completely. You are now done with both of your mop heads. Remove them and wash and dry them for the next time you wax. You should have your cleaned and dried rayon mop head, mop pole, clean bucket and ringer, and wax ready to go at this point. Pour 1-inch of wax into the bucket, remembering that whatever wax you use, cannot be used again. The more you wax, the more familiar you will become with how much wax it takes to do your floor. Do not pour excess wax back into the 5-gallon pail, as it will contaminate the wax. Attach the rayon mop head to the pole and put the mop head in the bottom of your mop bucket. Soak the wax head, making sure all threads have wax on them, before you begin to wax the floor. Any dry threads could result in streaks in your floor. Use your hands, if necessary, to squeeze wax into the mop head. Now that your mop head is thoroughly saturated with wax, you may need to add a little more wax to the bottom of the bucket. Using the mop pole, flop the mop head from one side to the other inside the bucket. Then, SLOWLY raise the mop head (to avoid a mess), put it into the ringer and ring it out gently, to not cause any foam or splatters out of the back of the ringer. Push your mop bucket to the area you want to start in, walk with the mop pole and head to an edge, outline the area with the mop head, leaving yourself a way out. Then, using a figure-eight pattern, fill in the area. If it begins to streak, you do not have enough wax on your mop head. Simply, go back to your bucket, flop it from side to side, ring it out slowly, and start again. After you begin the outline, and you notice that it looks like there is too much wax on the floor, go back to the ringer and ring it out some more and go back to the area to finish outlining. Then, continue with the figure-eight pattern. The excess that was on your edge will help you fill in the middle while you do your figure-eights. Continue this process until your entire floor is waxed. Once you begin to wax, do not stop until the entire area is complete. Stopping in the middle could cause heavy wax lines where you stopped and started again. As you’re moving along, keep your eyes open for areas you may not have covered, and do your figure-eights over the empty spots. This will ensure a consistent coat. This is especially important on the last coat. Once you’ve applied the first coat, wait a minimum of 15 minutes to let the area dry. Use your hand to feel your way, to make sure it is completely dry before you apply the subsequent coats. Moving forward before it is completely dry, could cause severe rips in the wax. DO NOT RUSH! A fan or ceiling fan during this process, pointed in the air and NOT at the floor, could speed up the drying process, as well as having all windows and doors open. Repeat this waxing process a minimum of 4 times (coats) and take down your tape. Do not put any rugs back into place for 24 hours, as the wax will need to breathe so it does not yellow. Any and all furniture can go back once the floor is completely dry. (1-2 hours) Do not ring out the wax head, as you want it t o stay moist. Put it inside of the trash bag, squeeze the air out, tie the bag in a knot, and make sure the bag does not have any holes in it. Then, place the bag inside your Tupperware container. Rinse out the mop bucket and ringer, as well as the mop pole, so that you do not get a wax build-up on your equipment.
Please do not hesitate to contact us at Floor seasons, Inc., should you have any questions prior to your waxing process through email or by calling 702.348.8971.
You can also view the Cleaning Instructions
in printable format.
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